Tomatoes originated in the Americas and reached Europe and Asia through transoceanic exchange. The ingredient in what now seem quintessential Mediterranean tomato dishes was not always available locally.
Tomatoes went through changing stages of introduction, cultivation, and widespread consumption. Following one ingredient reveals how global exchanges transformed everyday diets.
Mesoamerica
By 500 BCE, it was already being cultivated in southern Mexico and probably other areas. A large, lumpy variety of tomato, a mutation from a smoother, smaller fruit, originated in Mesoamerica, and may be the direct ancestor of some modern cultivated tomatoes.
The Aztecs raised several varieties of tomato, with red tomatoes called xitomatl. Bernardino de Sahagún reported seeing a great variety of tomatoes in the Aztec market at Tenochtitlán (Mexico City): "large tomatoes, small tomatoes, leaf tomatoes, sweet tomatoes, large serpent tomatoes, nipple-shaped tomatoes", and tomatoes of all colors from the brightest red to the deepest yellow. Sahagún mentioned Aztecs cooking various sauces, some with tomatoes of different sizes, serving them in city markets: "foods sauces, hot sauces;... with tomatoes,... sauce of large tomatoes, sauce of ordinary tomatoes,..."
Spanish distribution
The Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés's capture of Tenochtitlan in 1521 initiated the widespread cultural and biological interchange called the Columbian exchange. The tomato was cultivated in Europe only a few years after that event, by the 1540s, and grew easily in the Mediterranean climates. The earliest mention of the tomato in European literature appeared in Pietro Andrea Mattioli's 1544 herbal. He suggested that a new type of eggplant had been brought to Italy. He stated that it was blood-red or golden in color when mature and could be divided into segments and eaten like an eggplant, that is, cooked and seasoned with salt, black pepper, and oil. Ten years later, Mattioli named the fruits in print as pomi d'oro, or "golden apples".
It was probably eaten shortly after it was introduced, and tomatoes were used as food by the early 17th century in Spain, as documented in the 1618 play La octava maravilla by Lope de Vega with "lovelier than... a tomato in season".
After the Spanish colonization of the Americas, the Spanish distributed the tomato throughout their colonies in the Caribbean. After they introduced it to the Philippines, it spread to Southeast Asia and then across Asia.
Italy
In 1548, the house steward of Cosimo de' Medici, the grand duke of Tuscany, wrote to the Medici private secretary informing him that the basket of tomatoes sent from the grand duke's Florentine estate at Torre del Gallo "had arrived safely". Tomatoes were grown mainly as ornamentals early on after they arrived in Italy. For example, the Florentine aristocrat Giovanvettorio Soderini wrote how they "were to be sought only for their beauty", and were grown only in gardens or flower beds. The tomato's ability to mutate and create new and different varieties helped contribute to its success and spread throughout Italy. However, in areas where the climate supported growing tomatoes, their habit of growing close to the ground suggested low status. They were not adopted as a staple of the peasant population because they were not as filling as other crops.
Additionally, both toxic and inedible varieties discouraged many people from attempting to consume or prepare any other varieties. In certain areas of Italy, such as Florence, the fruit was used solely as a tabletop decoration until it was incorporated into the local cuisine in the late 17th or early 18th century. The earliest discovered cookbook with tomato recipes was published in Naples in 1692, though the author had apparently obtained these recipes from Spanish sources.
Varieties were developed over the following centuries for drying, for sauce, for pizzas, and for long-term storage. These varieties are usually known for their place of origin as much as by a variety name. For example, there is the Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio, the "hanging tomato of Vesuvius", and the well-known and highly prized San Marzano tomato grown in that region, with a European protected designation of origin certification.